Hakuba Valley: Japan's Best Ski Resort for Your Next Ski Trip

When most people think about skiing in Japan, one word comes to mind: Niseko. Niseko has earned its reputation as one of the best ski destinations in the world, and it sits on Hokkaido, Japan's northern island. But Japan's ski country extends well beyond Hokkaido. On Honshu, the main island, a different ski scene has been gaining popularity and it's centered around Hakuba Valley Ski Resort region - the Alps of Japan.

Hakuba Valley sits tucked behind a massive mountain range on the opposite side of the peaks from Tokyo, roughly three to four hours from Tokyo Station by bullet train. The terrain, the culture and the experience rival anything in the world — and without the crowds or the price tag that international fame brings with it. If you're planning a ski trip to Japan and you haven't considered Hakuba Valley, you're missing out.

Ski.com Explores Hakuba Valley

I saw this firsthand on a recent snowboard trip to Japan, where I joined four of Ski.com’s Mountain Travel Experts on a 10-day familiarization trip through Hakuba Valley, Japan. A FAM trip, as it's known in the travel industry, is exactly what it sounds like: A truly immersive, first-hand experience designed to give travel professionals the knowledge to share destinations with their clients. We visited four distinct ski destinations, stayed at properties ranging from boutique onsen ryokans to sprawling Prince Hotels, toured different hotels and homes, met with resort contacts and spent a significant number of hours on the mountain. 

What follows is everything we learned. Consider it your insider's guide to skiing Hakuba Valley, Japan, from a friend who researched for you. 

Read more: The unwritten rules of skiing in Japan

Japan: Getting There

The trip began in San Francisco, where the west coast agents linked up for our flight to Tokyo. The flight is long, but thankfully an extensive entertainment selection made the hours pass quickly. I was too excited to sleep, so I watched Bugonia, The Housemaid and 28 Years Later. (It was a long flight!)

Upon landing at Narita, we got our first real taste of Japan courtesy of a random convenience store in the airport. Japan's convenience stores are a cultural institution and standing in that airport kiosk surrounded by cheap cold beer, fresh sushi and an almost surreal level of cleanliness was the first indicator of a country that operates differently. 

PRO TIP: Ship your skis and snowboard ahead of travel. We did not do this. The image of six people navigating one of the world's busiest train stations with oversized ski bags and roller luggage is funny in retrospect but could've been easily avoided. Japan's ski shipping services are efficient and affordable. Build one extra day between your gear's arrival and your own. Do yourself the favor. 

From Tokyo Station, we boarded the Shinkansen, Japan's famous bullet train, bound for Nagano train station, the main gateway to Hakuba Valley ski resort and the broader Nagano ski region on Honshu.

• Traveling over 200 miles per hour, the ride is smooth and silent and takes about 2 hours. 
• You can take a train or bus all the way to Hakuba Valley, but a private transfer through your hotel is the easiest option. Hakuba Valley is a little over an hour by car from Nagano Station. 
• Nagano Station is a highlight with fun shopping. Build extra time before your train to explore. I wandered into a grocery store and scored some of the best sushi ever for about $4 USD. 

By the time we arrived at the chalets, roughly 24 hours had passed since leaving home. We crashed hard, which, as jet lag strategies go, is highly effective. 

PRO TIP: We were lucky to have a team of Mountain Travel Experts handling the flights, trains and private transfers. They've done it before and they can do it again for your Hakuba Valley ski vacation. 

Read More: Why is there so much snow in Japan?

Snow Monkeys at Jigokudani Park 

Before a single snowboard boot was put on, our second day in Japan delivered one of the most memorable experiences of the entire trip, and it had nothing to do with ski resorts. 

I will be honest: I have read that the snow monkeys were overhyped, and I also have a personal reservation about animal tourism. Jigokudani Monkey Park and our tour guide put both of those concerns to rest immediately. 

The macaques were everywhere, completely unbothered by us humans, soaking in natural hot spring pools and living their best life. It started to lightly snow as we hiked in, which only added to the magic. It was not crowded, not chaotic and nothing like the invasive animal tourism I had been bracing for. 

Here is what the day looks like: 

• The tour bus picks you up — ours was a 5-minute walk from where we were staying in Hakuba Valley
• About an hour drive to Jigokudani Monkey Park 
• A 40-minute hike through a pine forest — flat, mellow and people of all ages were doing it 
• Lunch at a traditional Japanese restaurant in a small town just outside Nagano 
• Afternoon exploration of the town, followed by a visit to Zenkoji Temple in Nagano for shopping and sightseeing 

The tour is a full day and is worth every moment. If you are building a Japan ski trip itinerary, do not skip this. 

EXPERT HIGHLIGHT: On the way in, our guide shared something that surprised us. Nagano is as famous for its fruit as it is for its powder. The elevation and climate that make the Nagano ski resort region so exceptional for skiing also create ideal growing conditions, producing some of Japan's finest apples, grapes and peaches. 

Hakuba Valley 

Hakuba Valley is the ideal base for a Japan ski trip. It is a quintessential ski town surrounded by ten different ski resorts, each with its own distinct feel, all accessible by shuttle or bus on a single lift pass. Whether your group is split between beginners and experts, laid-back cruisers and backcountry seekers, everyone finds their mountain. After the lifts close, Hakuba Valley delivers on the party front too — bars, izakayas, restaurants and lively après spots fill the town. Many lodging options in the area are ski-in ski-out for Happo-One, one of the valley's biggest resorts. 

The mountains here are stunning. There is a reason it is known as the Japanese Alps. Steep dramatic peaks, pine tree forests and vertical you expect to find in Europe or Colorado. The valley hosted alpine events at the 1998 Winter Olympics, and the quality of the terrain reflects that legacy. 

Who is Hakuba Valley skiing for? 

• Beginners and families — accessible groomed runs at virtually every resort 
• Intermediates — ten resorts on one pass means you never run out of terrain 
• Advanced skiers and riders — serious backcountry opportunities with a qualified guide 
• Everyone — the town has the bars, restaurants and après scene to match 

Where we stayed: Phoenix Chalets 

Our hosts set us up with two different chalets, although this neighborhood had many to choose from.

Here is what to know about the Phoenix Chalets: 

• Multi-bedroom chalets with queen beds in every room 
• Full kitchens 
• Deep soaking tub that opens to a forest view 
• Free shuttle service to get around town and to some of the resorts 
• 5-minute walk to town 

Perfect for groups, couples or families. Hotel options are also available in town, depending on your group's preference. 

PRO TIP: Marillen Restaurant and Bar is a must for dinner. Yes, we were genuinely shocked to find a delicious German meal deep in the Japanese Alps. The Japanese really know how to nail other cuisines.

Shiga Kogen 

Shiga Kogen is a completely different experience from Hakuba Valley, and that is precisely what makes it worth the trip. 

PRO TIP: Shiga Kogen is about 3 hours by bus from Hakuba Valley. It is easy to add as the next stop on a multi-resort itinerary. 

Japan's largest ski area encompasses 19 interconnected ski zones across a high volcanic plateau in Nagano Prefecture. Our group rode all day and never did the same run twice. Even in spring, we were still finding great snow tucked in the trees. The vibe is noticeably more Japanese than Hakuba. There are fewer international visitors, it's quieter and more local. Ichinoise is the main village area with restaurants and izakayas (a popular pub-style, laid-back restaurant you find all over Japan), but the après scene is minimal. Shiga Kogen is the kind of place you go specifically for the skiing and the quiet. 

Who is Shiga Kogen for? 

• Beginners — lots of accessible, mellow terrain 
• Intermediates — 19 interconnected zones mean endless options 
• Advanced skiers — advanced pockets and tree skiing throughout, but nothing super steep like you will find in other parts of Japan
• Anyone wanting an authentic Japanese ski experience — fewer crowds, more local 

Where we stayed: The Prince Hotel 

• Traditional feel, excellent value 
• Breakfast and dinner included 
• Also toured Hotel Grand Phenix for a more upscale option 
• And Okushiga Kogen Hotel for folks who want to be as deep in the mountain as possible 

Myoko 

Myoko is a hidden gem, and it is only a matter of time before the rest of the world figures that out. We only had one night at this resort, but it was great to get a feel for it. 

PRO TIP: Myoko is about 3 hours from Hakuba Valley by train and bus — a natural next stop on a multi-resort Japan ski itinerary. 

Where we stayed: Lime Resort 

Some of the most memorable lodging of the entire trip.

Here is what to expect: 

• Five-star boutique property with breakfast and dinner included 
• Fully traditional rooms: shoes off at the door, beds and tables on tatami mats, a change of clothes provided for wandering the property and going to the onsen
• On-site onsen with indoor and outdoor options, a specialty tea water bath, a cool pool to finish and a small stone waterfall outside connected to the onsen

PRO TIP: Tattooed travelers take note — Japan's onsen culture carries traditional policies around tattoos. Coverage with a small bandage is generally permitted, but always confirm at the front desk of your lodging. 

On the mountain

• Best terrain park of the trip 
• A snake run that was an absolute blast in spring slush 
• Tree riding is permitted with a guide — not the case at every resort in Japan 
• Vending machine ramen at the base: purchase a ticket, take it to the counter and sit down to a bowl of ramen and a cold beer. Every bit of the region's fame is true. We had delicious ramen at every single stop. 
• Best for beginners and intermediates

For travelers who want a boutique, authentically Japanese experience with terrain that rewards exploration, Myoko is the answer. 

Naeba 

Naeba was a surprise for us all. We weren't sure what to expect, but we were so happy with what we found. 

The Snow Advantage 

Naeba storm systems are powered by the Siberian Express. This is the powerful system that carries an excess of powder to Niseko every year. Mt. Naeba and neighboring Kagura Mountain have the elevation to make the most of those storms, and the snowpack reflects it. 

The Terrain 

• 30% beginner / 40% intermediate / 30% advanced — a well-rounded mountain for mixed groups 
• Naeba's main runs are mellow, but the lift-accessible sidecountry is exceptional 
• Guided backcountry available for those who want to push further 
• The two mountains are connected by the Dragondola, one of the longest gondolas in Japan, at nearly five miles 
• A direct bus from the hotel to Kagura's base is available for anyone who wants to skip the traverse and head straight to the epic sidecountry

Where we stayed: Naeba Prince Hotel 

Unlike any ski hotel you have encountered. It is a fully self-contained village with: 

• Shopping 
• Multiple restaurants and bars 
• A basement entertainment area designed to resemble a Tokyo street market 
• A team that set a high standard for hospitality throughout 

PRO TIP: Naeba is completely under the radar. Most of the skiing world has not caught on yet, which means now is the time to go. 

Tokyo 

On the intel from previous Mountain Travel Experts, we ended our trip in Tokyo. Tokyo is unlike any city I have ever been to. It has a pulse and an energy that is completely its own, and after 10 days in the mountains, it felt like stepping into an entirely different world. 

Where we stayed: The Grand Prince Hotel Takanawa is a beautiful property with a courtyard in the back featuring cherry blossoms and a koi pond. After the fast-paced ski trip, the quiet outdoor space was exactly what we needed. 

Our first evening, we headed to Ebisu for dinner and wandered the neighborhood's bars afterward. Some of the group ended up at one of Tokyo's legendary record bars: intimate, vinyl-centered, and unlike anything you will find anywhere else.  

The following day, we explored different neighborhoods with our guide and visited Tokyo Labs in Ginza neighborhood. Worth noting: the other Tokyo Labs locations around the city are reportedly stronger. Ginza itself is worth a walk as Tokyo's most upscale shopping district. The food throughout the day was outstanding, and Tokyo is simply one of the easiest and most rewarding cities in the world to just walk and wander. 

Which brings me to the most important thing: three days is the absolute minimum. Do not book a Japan ski trip without building at least that into the front or back end of the itinerary. There is simply too much to see, eat and experience. Don’t treat Tokyo as an afterthought — even during a ski vacation.  

Plan Your Hakuba Valley Ski Vacation

Japan is bigger than a ski trip. Yes, the skiing and riding is world-class. Yes, the powder is real and the mountains are stunning. But Japan has a culture and spirit that leaves you pining after your visit, long after you are home. It is a bowl of ramen at the base of the mountain. It is sitting alone in an outdoor onsen while snow falls around you. It is the quiet efficiency of a bullet train moving at 200 miles per hour and the unexpected magic of a 7-Eleven in a mountain town at midnight. It is a country that rewards curiosity at every turn. 

The people we met along the way made it even better. Every leg of this trip was handled with genuine care and expertise. That does not happen by accident. It happens because our hosts care about sharing the culture and uniqueness of Japan with travelers.  

If Japan ski trip has been on your radar, now is the time. Our travel agents have experienced Hakuba Valley, Japan firsthand and know exactly how to build the best skiing in Japan itinerary that is right for you. Reach out to our team of travel experts and let us take it from there.